New in Newcastle: from museum halls to Roman walls (Komal Pande, India, ITP 2025)
Written by Komal Pande, Deputy Curator, National Museum, New Delhi (India, ITP 2025)
Thanks to the unique course structure of the International Training Programme (ITP), which offers placements beyond the British Museum and London, as an ITP Fellow, I had an opportunity of stepping beyond the London based museum experience, into a city I’d never seen before – Newcastle. And, true to its name, it was all new to me and I was new to New Castle. After a delightful train ride with my course mates we arrived to Newcastle on the afternoon of 28th July. Waiting for us at the station was Dr. Bill Griffiths, Head of Programmes and Collections for the North East Museums. As we walked to our accommodation, he narrated stories of Newcastle’s museums and monuments, giving us a living history of the city and its vibes.
The sessions at Newcastle venue were curated thoughtfully by Dr Bill Griffiths and were truly enriching. On 29th July at the Discovery Museum, we delved into the inner workings of museum practice – governance, collections, staff roles, and policy frameworks – guided by Bill and Helen, whose experience and position was helpful in understanding the museum structure. The latter half of the day comprised of guided tour to the wonderful temporary exhibitions and a brief meet and greet with the Director Keith Merrin at his office.
The next morning brought a visit to the Great North Museum Hancock, where we were welcomed by Kate Holden and taken on a vivid tour of the natural history and archaeological exhibits. I learnt about their project of new researched labels alongside the basic museum labels re-contextualizing and contemporizing the museum practices as per the current discourse. As someone passionate about the personal archival records, I was particularly moved to learn about the Newcastle University Archive of Gertrude Bell – an explorer, writer, and archaeologist whose 1903 visit to my hometown, Lucknow, India, was recorded in her handwriting. It felt like a secret thread connecting her world to mine, a century apart.
31st July was a pure archaeological adventure, from metro rides to cabs to ferry crossings on the Tyne -and clocking 15,000 steps along the way – we explored Roman forts, castles, walls, and museums under the expert guidance of Dr Bill Griffiths. It was a privilege to see the site and discuss about ruins, remains and reconstructions with him, given his expertise on the subject. The day was packed with many monument and museum visits. In the site museum at Segedenum and Arbeia we discussed the details of display techniques and preferred narratology employed at these museums. Our long day ended with a classic British supper at the coast and a replenishing view and breeze of the North Sea, which was a site to behold.
We were back at the Discovery Museum on the morning of 1st August for our sessions that were focused on Archives, Collections and Exhibitions, and Museum Learning Programmes. We were introduced to the extensive archival collection of the Discovery Museum and saw some of the oldest maps, manuscripts, hand drawings and printed materials. The exhibition tours were focused on the permanent display at the museum where we learnt about the maritime history and shipbuilding achievement at the Tyne. In the concluding session we explored the significance of museum learning and educational activities looking at the methods and materials used by the museum educators to engage with children visiting the museum. Our sessions were conducted by able experienced and professionals in an interactive manner.
With 2nd August being a free day, I took the chance to take a solo trip to Thornhill, Scotland, where a dear college friend from India now lives. Spending the evening in her beautiful art-filled home, reminiscing about our Baroda days, and enjoying late-night conversations over homemade food was soul-nourishing. The scenic drives through the Scottish countryside – lochs, cattle, grassy stretches, and quite railway stations gave me a different kind of experience to hold onto – personal and intimate; and the warmth of an old friend in a foreign land, Scotland felt like a gentle pause. Returning to Newcastle at midnight, I was surprised to find the city alive with youthful energy and weekend revelry, it felt like two worlds perfectly coexisting.
And then, 3rd August – the grand finale that felt too grand to be the end. We travelled out of the city to visit Hadrian’s Wall and other remnants of Roman Britain. Under a clear blue sky, we walked the paths once used by Roman soldiers and emperors, exploring milecastles, turrets, baths, and bridges. Dr. Bill’s archaeological walkthroughs through the sites were enlightening and inspiring. Between soft dips of the roads, the lush green landscapes, the cuddly cattle, stones, inscriptions, and the Roman rhetoric of his voice, it was a perfect field visit exploring great sites in-situ!
I feel fortunate to have been here with my ITP colleagues: Perihan (queen of fairies) an archaeologist from Turkiye, Fernando (the Spanish royalty) Associate Professor in Anthropology and Hanan (tender) a Cuneiform Specialist from Iraq, and Chantal (resilient and beautiful) Curator from Rawanda, the senior ITP fellow, the folks who made my visit so memorable. I am deeply grateful to the ITP team, Claire, Amelia and George for giving me this wonderful opportunity to be in this city. My sincere thanks to all the professionals of the North East Museum team who conducted such fruitful sessions. I am indebted to Dr Bill Griffiths for reintroducing me to the thriving charisma of art, architecture and archaeology in-situ besides the showcased antiquities in the museum spaces.
Although I still have a few more days before I bid farewell to Newcastle, I already know I am carrying back enriching experiences and meaningful learnings that I could have hoped for from this city that was entirely new to me a week ago. Next time, I’ll return as a new friend of Newcastle.